CHAPTER
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The Islander was my first attempt at building a sailboat, but I don't suppose there ever was an amateur-built craft that so nearly fulfilled the dream of her owner, or that a landsman ever came to weaving a magic carpet of the sea.(l) WITH THE COMING IN OF THE NEW YEAR 1917, THE QUIET harbor of Los Angeles lay peacefully in the early morning fog; the delicate scents of the land and of the fresh orange crop and of the eucalyptus groves mingled with the more pungent smells of the tide flats now momentarily bare. The sound of a church bell came faintly across from the direction of Long Beach. A tuna clipper moved out of San Pedro. A couple of yachts drifted out with the tide, heading for Catalina Island. Although a terrible war gripped Europe and much of the world, America was not yet in it; even so, a number of defense industries, including new shipyards, were already operating in the Los Angeles area in anticipation of United States participation. On this particular Sunday, however, peace lay over the land and waterfront so heavy that it almost seemed tangible. Most industries and the docks were shut down. The only sound was a steady ring of an adze striking its cutting blows on a huge Douglas fir timber.(2) The man working so industriously this Sunday morning was a Quaker, although not an outwardly practicing one, and he did not ~ 57 ~ consider what he was doing as working on Sunday. He was building his dream ship. A small, wiry man with thin sandy hair and blue eyes, he had come down to Los Angeles harbor from the Sequoia country, where he had been operating a photo business for the tourist trade, to find work in the defense effort. The tourist trade was bad enough in summer, but in winter, with war clouds hovering, there was no money in it. So he sold out the business, and with the proceeds of a small farm he had inherited, he packed up and came down out of the High Sierras to the big city. He was forty-five years old, a bachelor without family ties, and behind him lay a colorful and even adven- turous life that belied his modest and unassuming manners. Essen- tially, Harry Pidgeon was always his own man who all his life had done just about everything he felt like except sail to the romantic islands of the world in his own ship. A few days before, he had rented a lot on the beach and set about to fulfill that oversight. At the moment, a casual visitor even from Pidgeon's home state of Iowa where most of southern California at that time came from would have considered him just another nut on the beach. Nearby, across the channel on the Terminal Island side, a "colored Moses," as the locals called him, was building an ark in which to transport his followers to Liberia, the size of the ark being regulated by the amount of donations that came in. As funds continue to come, the ark continued to increase in size until it was now two stories high, covered with windows through one of which a stovepipe emitted smoke from a cooking fire on this Sunday morn. A beachcomber in a nearby shack was working on a vessel which would use an electric motor to generate power, run by a windmill on deck. The harbor was an interesting place with fascinating people and projects going on, and there was no lack of friendly visitors and onlookers, many of whom volunteered advice gratuitously. It was a happy place to live and carry out one's dreams, but Harry Pidgeon, the individualist, needed neither advice nor help. He was accustomed to being alone and doing things his own way. Born in 1874 on a farm in Iowa, he did not see salt water until he went to California at age eighteen. None of his ancestors had ever been seafaring people, and as far as he knew they had always been dirt farmers. After several dull years on a ranch, during which he had built a canoe but had no place to use it, he headed for Alaska with another young farmer named Dan Williamson. Alaska was still a place of mystery and adventure, and the famed Gold Rush had not ~ 58 ~ yet started. All he knew about the territory he learned from Lieu- tenant Schwatka's expedition in Along the Great River of Alaska. With Dan, Pidgeon shipped out to the landing below Chilkoot Pass, joined a party of prospectors going over, and on the shores of Marsh Lake, a source of the Yukon River, he and Dan whipsawed some planks from a spruce tree and built a boat. With no experience on water at all, they paddled out of the lake and shot the rapids in Miles Canyon, where they found others portaging. Next came Five Finger Rapids, where one of the party they joined, an ex-sailor named Peter Lorentzen, drowned. Harry and Dan rescued the others and took Peter's partner, Henry, to Circle City, the new mining town.(3) That fall, after many adventures on the Yukon River, the two young farmers reached the mouth at St. Michael's Island and took passage on a freighter, the Bertha, for California. Back on the farm in Iowa, Harry found he could not settle down again. He went back to Alaska and spent several years exploring and hunting, and taking pictures with his camera, which was a hobby that he turned into a business. He built several boats, one of which was a sailboat in which he explored the islands of the Panhandle section. Later, he made a trip to the old homestead in Iowa, became inter- ested in the Mississippi's possibilities, went to Minneapolis and built a houseboat below St. Anthony Falls, and spent a year floating down to New Orleans. Abandoning the flatboat at Port Eads, he returned to California and spent the next few years farming and operating a photo business in the Sierras. In his mind, he could not forget his dream to sail to faraway islands. When Thomas Fleming Day, the legendary editor of Rud- der, and his staff developed the Sea Bird, and its variations the Naiad and Seagoer, Pidgeon recognized his dream ship immediately. He sent for the plans, which were in a booklet called How To Build a Cruising Yawl.(4) The lines-and offsets for all three yawls were in- cluded, so he borrowed ideas from each of them and added a few of his own. The finished result, which he named Islander, was out- wardly the , with the deep keel containing 1,250 pounds of cast iron attached to heavy timbers that formed an enormously strong backbone. She was yawl-rigged, 34 feet overall, 10 feet 9 inches beam, and drew 5 feet of water with no load. She was rigged with 630 square feet of canvas and had no motor, which Pidgeon did not want and could not afford. Completed, the Islander had cost $1,000 and 18 months of hard labor. For the wartime years, Pidgeon lived aboard his yawl and made ~ 59 ~ short coastwise cruises, meanwhile studying celestial navigation from a textbook, Navigation by Harold Jacoby. After the war, a yachtsman friend invited him to sail to Hawaii, which seemed like an ideal way to get some practical ocean experience. Leaving Islander with a friend, Pidgeon joined the other yacht. Like Slocum, the men took aboard a box of ripe plums which they ate as they sailed out. When clear of land, they encountered a strong gale and heavy seas and the effects of the ripe plums. Unlike Slocum, who had the pilot of the Pinta aboard, the owner and crew quickly lost enthusiasm for Hawaii. The owner turned around and sailed back. This experience convinced Pidgeon that the singlehanded sailor was better off. Sometime later, he decided to sail Islander to Hawaii, and did so in twenty-five days, during which he experienced the exhilaration of running down the trades, and the beauty of the open sea in all its moods. It gave him the needed experience in manning the ship singlehandedly and put to use his studies in navigation. But he was sea weary when he got to Honolulu and thought twice about beating back against the trade winds. After an extended stay, he departed via the northern circle route with a friend, an undertaker's son named Earl Brooks, also from California. They made the passage in forty- three days, during which Pidgeon became thoroughly familiar with handling his yawl in all conditions of sea and weather. At noon on November 18, 1921, Pidgeon departed Los Angeles harbor alone in Islander, bound for the Marquesas. He had laid aboard enough staples to last a year, with plenty of space left over. Aboard were beans, peas, rice, dried fruits, sugar, and bacon. For bread, Pidgeon carried wheat and corn which he ground into flour with a handmill. All these were kept in air-tight containers to exclude moisture and insects. He also had a large supply of canned salmon and milk, as well as fresh potatoes, onions, and garden vegetables and other foods. On the first leg, Pidgeon ran before a mountainous sea and a gale, but then reached the trade winds belt and enjoyed fine sailing. On December 21, he crossed the equator, and at 3:30 P.M. on December 30, he sighted Ua Huka Island, and soon after dropped the hook at Nuku Hiva, forty-two days from Los Angeles. A student of Melville and Porter, Pidgeon was fascinated with the Marquesas and spent considerable time here. Ashore he met Andre Alexander, the French commissioner, and Bob McKittrick, the store- keeper and greeter of hundreds of yachts.(5) McKittrick told Pidgeon about the two English yachts that had recently called there, Amaryllis ~ 60 ~ and Dream Ship. Sightseeing in Melville's Typee and taking pictures for later lectures, the time passed easily for Pidgeon. Also among the callers to the Marquesas was Captain Joe Winchester on the Tahi- tian Maiden, about whom both John Voss and Kenny Luxton had written earlier And the colony included the usual botanists and naturalists from American museums. While here, Pidgeon had an abscessed tooth removed by a Mr. Sterling of the American colony, suffered an injury to both arms, and an infected foot from stepping on a sea urchin. He managed, how- ever, to haul the yawl and clean the bottom. At noon on May 3, 1922, he sailed from Nuku Hiva to Tahiti via the Tuamotus, where he visited the Mormon missionary on Takaroa, who related to him the visit of the Speejacks some time before. Pidgeon was delighted with Tahiti, and especially the quiet peace- ful town of Papeete, hidden among the trees, and the picturesque harbor. The climate was balmy and restful, and the people friendly. Here a party of Americans took him for a motor ride around the island, during which the driver, a Californian, showed the passengers how they drove at home, rolling the vehicle over on a curve. No one was hurt, however. While he was there, the American yacht Invader from Santa Barbara came in with her owner, J. P. Jefferson. When the cruise ship arrived from San Francisco, a man who had earlier tried to join Pidgeon on his voyage came up and shook hands. After celebrating Bastille Day, Pidgeon departed for Moorea, Bora Bora, and Samoa. He was unable to obtain a chart of Fiji, but found a small map on a steamship folder which he used. In Suva, he was welcomed by the ubiquitous harbor- master Mr. Twentymen, enjoyed a lengthy stay, and then sailed to the New Hebrides on April 25, 1923. New Guinea came next, and then Torres Strait and Thursday Island, where Pidgeon expected to pick up his mail. He suffered a bad infection in his thumb during this period, which was treated by friends. At Thursday Island, he had to endure the Australian red tape, but this was a crossroads point where he could go south behind the Great Barrier Reef, or pass through the East Indies to the Orient and the Philippines, or he could return to California via Captain Slocum's track across the Indian and Atlantic oceans. Islander needed some repairs. She had encountered a reef, suffered several groundings, had once pulled the anchor and sailed off by herself, and in general needed attention. For this Pidgeon moved over to the lee of Prince of Wales Island. While here, the American ~ 61 ~ yacht Ohio, with the newspaper tycoon E. W. Scripps aboard, arrived. Pidgeon was invited aboard with the mayor of Thursday Island. The Ohio had been cruising Southeast Asia, and there were political discussions about Japanese-American relations, but Mr. Scripps was most interested in Captain Harry Pidgeon and his little Islander, especially when Scripps learned that it cost only fifty cents a day to operate. Also while here, the Americans learned of the death of President Harding. Mayor Corwin put the flag at half-mast on the town hall and declared a holiday. Pidgeon sailed on August 7, 1923, stopping at Koepang in Dutch Timor, then at Christmas Island, where he had an enjoyable visit. At the Keeling-Cocos Islands, he was welcomed by a descendant of the founder, John Clunies-Ross, and spent a weekend on Home Island.(6) On October 13, Pidgeon made Rodriguez, learning that the famous yacht Shanghai had been there just ahead of him. He visited the caverns, enjoyed the local hospitality, and was robbed of his money and photographs, which were later recovered. In Mauritius, Pidgeon was also welcomed and enjoyed the stay. He sailed on December 4 for South Africa, passed Madagascar, and encountered a storm in the Mozambique Channel. He came into Durban on the tail end of the northeaster and was towed to a berth in the creek. Christmas was spent here with new friends and several lectures were made with his lantern slides. Then, on February 27, 1924, he put to sea again. The worst weather and biggest seas were encoun- tered on the sail around the Cape of Good Hope, but the little Islander was up to it. With sheets close-hauled and sprays flying, Pidgeon beat up to Green Point where he was met by a launch and towed to a berth at the docks in Cape Town. Among the delegation awaiting his arrival was the commodore of the Royal Yacht Club, who extended the club's courtesies to him. Pidgeon very nearly abandoned his circumnavigation to settle here permanently. Of all the places he visited, he liked South Africa, its people and climate, best of all, but in the end his restlessness moved him on. Soon after leaving Cape Town on the Atlantic leg, Islander was driven ashore embayed on a sandy beach. Some nearby farmers took Pidgeon into their home and helped him get his yawl afloat again. Like Slocum, Pidgeon's hosts could not understand how he could be sailing home by going west all the time. The world was flat, ~ 62 ~ the old folks said. Their children, however, scoffed at the elders. "Oh, mother," said one, "don't you know the world is round?" On September 22, Pidgeon sailed from Cape Town for the second time, and called at St. Helena, where the islanders still recalled Slocum's visit in 1898. The American consul, R. A. Clark, who had given Slocum the troublesome goat, was still there. The next stop was Ascension. Leaving there, Pidgeon had an acci- dent in which the water cask sprang a leak and filled the bilge. Fernando de Noronha was sighted on December 26. On January 10, Islander was damaged and nearly run down by a passing ship whose captain thought Pidgeon was in trouble. Pidgeon reached Trinidad on January 20, delivering some mail from friends back on Mauritius. He enjoyed the carnival in Port of Spain, and then repaired the battered Islander. After that, he visited the pitch lake from which Sir Walter Raleigh got the tar to caulk his ships in 1595, visited among the West Indies, and then departed for Panama, arriving at Cristobal on May 2. At the post office, Pidgeon received mail and newspaper clippings from California containing an interview with Captain Johnson of the S. S. San Quirino, an oil tanker which had nearly run him down in the South Atlantic. Later he visited the ship in Los Angeles and had a good laugh with the crew over the incident. Pidgeon tried to visit the San Blas islands, but could not get per- mission. He did visit Portobelo with a local photographer named Lewis. He also encountered the yacht Los Amigos from Los Angeles on which his friend from Hawaii days, the undertaker's son, Earl Brooks, had helped organize a treasure-hunting expedition. For the Panama Canal Passage, Islander was rated at five tons. The charge was $3.75 for the toll and $5 for measuring. Instead of hiring a launch, Pidgeon used the outboard motor which he borrowed, run by his friend from the Los Amigos, Captain Goldberg. The outboard failed them, so Pidgeon spread his sails and ghosted through into Gatun Lake where he anchored for a few days. Among the ships that passed was the old Tusitala, one of America's last square- rigged windjammers. At Balboa, Pidgeon encountered Alain Gerbault, the famed French tennis player and war veteran, who was now on his way around in Firecrest. Harry did not like Firecrest, which was a racing cutter; and Islander did not appeal to the Frenchman's esthetic senses. Here, Pidgeon also met again Mr. Scripps on the Ohio, which was on its way to Africa, where later the newspaper magnate died at ~ 63 ~ sea. In Balboa, Dr. William Beebe arrived on Arcturus, en route to the Galapagos Islands. Then came a party of British scientists on the yacht St. George, en route to Easter Island to solve the riddle of the stone faces planted on the hillsides by ancient peoples. Pidgeon enjoyed most the visit from the sailors on the U.S.S. Wyoming, which was in port, and his visits on the warship. Many of the sailors were fascinated by his life and vowed they would do the same when they got out. At Farfan Point, Pidgeon beached the Islander and repainted. He also replaced the cookstove and made other repairs. On August 7, he stood out to sea again for the final run to Los Angeles. This proved to be the longest and most tedious leg, taking him west of Clipperton, and up the long pull to the California coast, eighty-five days during which Islander grew a garden on her bottom and drifted for weeks in the doldrums. Still in good health and uncomplaining as usual, Pidgeon hauled down the sails in Los Angeles harbor on October 31, 1925. For his circumnavigation, Pidgeon was awarded the third Blue Water Medal in the history of the Cruising Club of America. Charter member Clifford Mallory arranged to have both Pidgeon and his yawl transported from California to the East Coast free of charge on one of his American-Hawaiian Line steamers to attend the April CCA meeting in 1926, and to speak to the members of his experiences. The club took to Pidgeon warmly and he was induced to stay in the East, which he did until 1932. For four years, while he was writing his book, Pidgeon moored the yawl at a dock at George Bonnell's island at Byram Shore, Greenwich, and took his meals ashore with George. John Parkinson, Jr.,(7) the late secretary of the CCA, recalled that his father, a famous yachtsman, had invited Pidgeon to spend a week at their home. He remembered him as a small man, retiring to the point of shyness, but a man of charm and humor when speaking on subjects which interested him. In 1928, Pidgeon took part in the Bermuda Race, winning over two other boats in his class, one of which was Svaap, with William A. Robinson, who started his circumnavigation with this race and also won a Blue Water Medal later. In 1932, Pidgeon set off on another circumnavigation also taking five years. During World War II, he married, and in 1947, with his bride, at the age of seventy-three, he departed Hawaii for his third circumnavigation on the aging Islander. A typhoon caught him in ~ 64 ~ Hog Harbor in the New Hebrides, and the venerable old yawl was driven up on the rocks and destroyed. Subsequently, he began building another yawl, this time a Sea Bird, somewhat smaller than Islander, but before he could sail again, death took him at age eighty-one.(8) A friendly, unassuming man who charmed people wherever he sailed in the world, from natives to millionaires, Pidgeon never really asked much of life, except the privilege of going his own way alone. He never sought fame and never accumulated wealth. He was a man, however, gifted with that illusive knack of getting the most out of life with the least amount of fuss. "Ulysses," he wrote, "is fabled to have had a very adventurous voyage while returning from the sack of Troy, but for sufficient reasons I avoided adventure as much as possible. Just the same, any landsman who builds his own vessel and sails alone around the world will certainly meet with some adventures, so I shall offer no apology for my voyage. Those days were the freest and happiest of my life." ~ 65 ~- end Chapter 6 -
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AUTHOR's NOTES Chapter Six 1. Around the World Singlehanded by Harry Pidgeon (New York: Appleton, 1932). Pidgeon, who took four years to write his book, obviously had Slocum's Sailing Alone Around the World before him as a model during this unfamiliar business. There are many similarities of organization and style, but unfortunately Pidgeon did not have a talented Century Magazine editor to give his work the professional touch as did Slocum. 2. Douglas fir often called Oregon pine, is the tree which forms the backbone of the timber industry in the Pacific Northwest. At that time, huge straight-grained timbers of almost any size were readily available, as were extra long planks for full-length strakes. Circumnavigator William Crowe used such one-piece planks in building his 39-foot Lang Syne in 1936 3. Before the famous and glamorous Klondike Gold Rush, the cen- ter of interest in gold mining was at Circle City in Alaska. Gold was discovered later on Klondike Creek in the Yukon Territory, and sparked the mad rush that led to Dawson and other gold fields. 4. This plans book is still available from Rudder. Probably more vessels have been built from Sea Bird plans than any other yacht ever designed. Styled for easy homebuilding, it used the then-advanced hard-chine technique. The original was sailed to Rome, Italy, by Day and two companions. 5. Pidgeon helps to solve the mystery of when McKittrick arrived in the Marquesas. Although Stock does not mention the trader, Muhlhauser did. Since McKittrick told Pidgeon about meeting the Amaryllis and the Dream Ship, he must have arrived there before 1919. 6. Early voyagers, from Slocum on, all reported the warm welcome received at Keeling-Cocos. In 1973, however, visiting yachtsmen discovered that their welcome had long since been worn out by sea tramps who have sponged on the Clunies-Ross family. Visitors are no longer welcome at Home Island, altbough the cable station and air held personnel are still glad to see them. 7. See Nowhere Is Too Far, edited by John Parkinson, Jr. (New York: Cruising Club of America, 1960). 8. His bride, Margaret, had been an experienced sailor in her own right before marrying Captain Pidgeon. Born at sea on her father's square-rigger, she early learned the arts of the sailor and of handling small boats. The Islander was the couple's home. In 1947, they sailed her to Hawaii from Los Angeles. In November, they departed Honolulu for Torres Strait, encountering rough weather during the 66-day passage to the New Hebrides, and a broken main boom. To make the repair, they put into Hog Island where an unseasonable hurricane caught them. Returning to California, they began work on a Sea Bird, the 25-foot version of Islander. Harry was then seventy-nine. He died in 1955.